There's multiple levels of irony in the naming of this wine.

For a start the early bird has long since flown when it comes to the Marlborough savvy phenomenon and the chances of finding someone who hasn't tasted one are slimmer than a seagull's legs.

Secondly the early birds amongst you will have no need for a wine like this. This is a wine for the foggy-headed and the sluggish, the slow-to-start and the overwhelmingly listless.

That's because one glass of this is like sticking your head in a bucket of icy water drawn straight from the Marlborough Sounds. It's so tinglingly fresh, so alert and alive, so downright delicious that it will make anyone feel like the earliest and happiest of birds.

• Nelson NZ sauv blanc
• Made at Waimea winery
• Great parcel of zippy, racy sauvignon blanc
• Great Price – first come first served