Coonawarra – Where Cabernet is KingThe first thing that strikes you when you get to Coonawarra is that it took you a bloody long time to get there. Four hours to Adelaide in one direction, four hours to Melbourne in another. And not much else in between. Luckily the region makes some of Australia’s best wines. Across this wide brown land few places are as prized for viticulture as the narrow red strip of terra rossasoil that runs in a long cigar shape through Coonawarra. This is seriously special dirt and one variety above all others thrives in it. Cabernet Sauvignon, traditionally more at home surrounded by the grand chateaux of Bordeaux or the pleasure palaces ofNapa, thrives amongst the gum trees, tin sheds and grazing cattle of Coonawarra. The region can also produce outstanding shiraz and white varieties like riesling and sauvignon blanc can thrive in the distinctive red soil.
A bit of historyJohn Riddoch planted the first vines in Coonawarra, then known as the Penola Fruit Colony, back in 1890 but after a bit of early success viticulture was dumped in the too hard basket until interest was renewed in the early 1950s when David Wynn arrived to join hardy local families like the Redmans andBrands working the rich red soil. This was the period that produced vinous legends like the legendary 1955 Wynn’s ‘Michael’ Hermitage, considered one of the very best wines ever made in Australia, and the famous ‘Treasure Chest’ series fromWoodley Wines. Coonawarra grew steadily as its reputation spread and after a couple of Jimmy Watson trophies came to the region in the early 1980’s vineyard land started reaching Sydney harbourfront prices. The ‘Full House’ sign is permenently up these days and every available bit of terra rossa. Vine age is good, vineyards well established and after a slightly wobbly period where punters went in search of the newer and more glamorous, Coonawarra is coming back with a vengeance.
What it does bestCabernet sauvignon and Coonawarra is great example of what makes wine such special stuff, how a plant and a place can combine to create something utterly distinctive and unique. Coonawarra’s red soils give cabernet intensity and depth, muscle and grunt, and the wines show a distinctive mintiness that marks them as Coonawarra. Shiraz delivers full, fleshy wines with a dusting of spice, riesling is aromatic and floral with just a touch more weight than more classic areas and even sauvignon blanc can do so interesting things in the right places.
Who’s making the good stuffWynns are back on top form and their wines are regional benchmarks,Balnaves benefit from the magic touch of the brilliant Pete Bissell andMajella make some of the best structured, longest lived wines in the district. Zema Estate control some of the best dirt in Coonawarra and their Coonawarra – Where Cabernet is King The first thing that strikes you when you get to Coonawarra is that it took you a bloody long time to get there. Four hours to Adelaide in one direction, four hours to Melbourne in another. And not much else in between. Luckily the region makes some of Australia’s best wines. Across this wide brown land few places are as prized for viticulture as the narrow red strip of terra rossasoil that runs in a long cigar shape through Coonawarra. This is seriously special dirt and one variety above all others thrives in it. Cabernet Sauvignon, traditionally more at home surrounded by the grandchateaux of Bordeaux or the pleasure palaces ofNapa, thrives amongst the gum trees, tin sheds and grazing cattle of Coonawarra. The region can also produce outstanding shiraz and white varieties like riesling and sauvignon blanc can thrive in the distinctive red soil. A bit of historyJohn Riddoch planted the first vines in Coonawarra, then known as the Penola Fruit Colony, back in 1890 but after a bit of early success viticulture was dumped in the too hard basket until interest was renewed in the early 1950s when David Wynn arrived to join hardy local families like the Redmans andBrands working the rich red soil. This was the period that produced vinous legends like the legendary 1955 Wynn’s ‘Michael’ Hermitage, considered one of the very best wines ever made in Australia, and the famous ‘Treasure Chest’ series from Woodley Wines. Coonawarra grew steadily as its reputation spread and after a couple of Jimmy Watson trophies came to the region in the early 1980’s vineyard land started reaching Sydney harbourfront prices. The ‘Full House’ sign is permenently up these days and every available bit of terra rossa. Vine age is good, vineyards well established and after a slightly wobbly period where punters went in search of the newer and more glamorous, Coonawarra is coming back with a vengeance. What it does bestCabernet sauvignon and Coonawarra is great example of what makes wine such special stuff, how a plant and a place can combine to create something utterly distinctive and unique. Coonawarra’s red soils give cabernet intensity and depth, muscle and grunt, and the wines show a distinctive mintiness that marks them as Coonawarra. Shiraz delivers full, fleshy wines with a dusting of spice, riesling is aromatic and floral with just a touch more weight than more classic areas and even sauvignon blanc can do so interesting things in the right places. Who’s making the good stuffWynns are back on top form and their wines are regional benchmarks,Balnaves benefit from the magic touch of the brilliant Pete Bissell andMajella make some of the best structured, longest lived wines in the district. Zema Estate control some of the best dirt in Coonawarra and their brilliant value wines show it and we also really like what’s coming out of places like Hollick, Katnook, Bowen Estate, Leconfield,Punter’s Corner, Di Giorgio, Parker, Redman and Brands. Brilliant value wines show it and we also really like what’s coming out of places like Hollick, Katnook, Bowen Estate, Leconfield,Punter’s Corner, Di Giorgio, Parker, Redman and Brands.
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